update

Had a more chilled 12 hours after a crazy 24 hours - lot of food for thought, which I'm going to share with you as blogs are supposed to be warts and all. Publish and be damned, etc.
First of all the wonderful Thai/Chinese girl either stood me up or there was a miscommunication, for vanity's sake I'm going for the latter (it's possible her English was poor, my Thai obviously non-existant, and she volunteered her no rather than being asked for it), but truthfully I think it's the other.
So last night went drinking with a sound guy from Bristol. He's been here a while and was far more adept at spotting ladyboys than me - until now I've only really spotted the bad drag queens the truth, as he explained, is they are more prevalent and often better disguised.. the truth is fightening. He also thinks, and I have no reason to doubt him, that about 80% of girls in Khao Sarn Road are prostitutes. We then both met girls and I was paranoid - how do you ask 'By the way, are you on the game?'. Anyway - I wish I could put restrictions on who reads this - she wasn't, neither was she or ever had been part-Norris, part-Doris - however, she was crazy, and I don't have her number nor would I want it. It also occurs to me that even Thai girls who are not prostitutes might latch onto Western guys as a means to a better life, and you can be in danger of being no better than the old Western men who wonder around with Thai women half their age, it's not something I really want to dwell on as I think it's a grey area with no easy answers, but as I say, it has occured to me.
Also, the US, tattoo'd, tut-tut scam afficionado (previous post), now thinks we're best friends and is leaching on, trying to get me to buy, or help scam, him drinks... so I'm hiding from a Yank guy and a crazy Thai girl and trying to get some normality back into my life.
Which brings us to today. In the hope of avoiding said fiends, I walked all the way to the nearest train station to book my ticket for Chang Mai - apparently it's a monestry haven, could be just the ticket - it was a several hour walk and gave me a chance to wonder through genuine Thai streets. There are several things to love about real Thailand - great food, from noodles and stir-fried meat and veg to fresh fruit, stored in ice, sold everywhere, to little market stores, and the people themselves who are unbelieveably friendly when not affected by tourism. So it was good.
Incidentally, as I've mentioned in previous posts, in Chang Mai I have a rather strange 'Life Improvement' press trip, acquired in my role as part time travel writer, full time blagger. I received an email yesterday from the organiser saying that part of the programme is a kind of counselling session where I am supposed to talk about 'personal issues'! Oh my days...

Thai boxing, Thai girls, Thai scams

Despite allegations to the contrary - who the hell is propertyscot? - I did go to watch Thai Boxing last night. Bangkok has two main boxing stadiums, the one I went to is cylindrical and a little bit like the fighting cage in one of the Mad Max films. Some of the fights were a little cagey , but at least two were phenomenal with the guys going hell for leather. You could hear the impact of the kicks from my cheap seat at the back. Where I was people were more interested in gambling than boxing, with a neverending chorus of shouts and confusing hand signals. Outside the police lined up their riot gear on the pavement - shields, rams, helmets, etc - I guess as a show of strength as there wasn't a hint of trouble.

Bizarrely I met some Bostonians at the fight and then when I got back to Khao Sarn Road much about 11ish I found myself drinking with a guy from the same city. We hooked up with two Thai girls - and when I mean girls, for all you wise guys, I mean the authentic kind - and I ended up drinking and chatting with one until 6am before walking her home. She was a mix of Chinese and Thai and I can't begin to describe how lovely. I got her phone no so have changed plans to stay in Bangkok for a few more days, no doubt I'll find a way to mess it up!

Today I'd barely left the hotel when I'd bumped into an American guy, head to foot in tattoos, and we ended up getting a tut-tut from shop to shop, pretending to be interested in buying but not - the tut-tut driver got commission from the shops and bought us beers. Madness. I didn't really want to get involved in such underhand shenaninghans but was somewhat railroaded.

The photos include Thai boxing and the royal palace.

Life in the decompression chamber

Life is pretty mad right now, I'm stagnating in a Chang-induced stupour - it's not a bad thing. They serve alcohol in buckets here, last night I was drinking with a mix of Thais, French and Norwegians, it was legendary but I couldn't keep up. I think Indian tee-totalism has turned me into a lightweight (or even more of one depending on your viewpoint). As a result my days are spent wondering around the sights or shops in a hangover haze. Like I say it's a lot of fun, but probably something I should leave sooner rather than later for the sake of my sanity.
First impressions of Thailand are that the people must be among the friendliest and most committed to fun on Earth. Indians are very abrupt and altho they're not rude it can come across that way. Thais are the opposite, always smiling and joking. I think I'm going to watch some Thai Boxing tonight - when in Rome and all that - and then maybe head for some water market type wilderness tomorrow.

Bangkok

Have arrived in Thailand, currently in Bangkok, in the Khao Sarn area, which is where everyone goes. It's a little bit unreal, a little bit 18-30 and basically very touristy. I generally prefer smaller places as funnily enough it's easier to meet people, but here is a lot of fun and it's good to have a drink again. Thailand is more expensive than India, but I hope that is more Bangkok than southeast Asia as a whole. I think table tennis must be the national sport because I keep getting asked to go watch ping pong shows.
Plan is to stay here a few days, hopefully meet up with a friend from Edinburgh who should be here soon, then try and get a day or two in Damnoen Saduak, before heading north to Chaing Mai. I'll then travel back down the country gradually in time for the full moon beach party on October 14 before heading to Cambodia and Vietnam.

Chandi-oh-my-garrrh

Have a little time stuck in Chandgarh so thought I'd update the blog, though not a lot to say (now there's a killer intro).
The monsoon appears to have taken a break to catch it's breath after almost three days non-stop rain. Despite the wet, Manali was very cool. I was forced to spend much of my time in an open air cafe called Dylan (after Bob, with the strapline 'Roasted and Toasted', also very cool), chatting to Israelis who dominated the tourist population, which as I've said before was mostly stoned. Everyone knows one person in Uni who is a legendary stoner and spends their entire time in a cannabis smoke haze. For me that person was Pete, and Manali was like Pete's room in halls expanded and stuck halfway up the Himilayas. I swear to God they even had shops selling jumpers Pete used to wear, it was uncanny.
It occured to me just before I got my bus that getting up to Manali in dry daylight had seemed precarious so getting a nightbus down in the pouring rain could have been a bad idea. The driver did manage to smash a window by driving too close to a cliff face (who was to know that rock smashes glass?!), broke down for about an hour, had to change route because of various landslides (can't really blame him for that), and eventually turfed us out after getting a puncture. We got another bus the rest of the way. However, we didn't go off the side so for me, even with the added seven hours, it was a success.
Now in Chandigarh which is one of India's newest cities and pretty prosperous, but if you've ever thought that pretty much every English large town looks depressingly alike, you'll have a good picture of Chandigarh.
This is the 11th place in India I have spent time in, so have covered quite a lot of ground - would have liked to have seen the south though, next time.
Must admit am ready for some beach partying Thailand style, chatting to some people in Jodhpur gave me a taste for it, flight's in less than 36 hours, come on!

Rishikesh and Manali

Spent Monday and Tuesday in Rishikesh, a paradise several hour east of Delhi where the Himalayan mountain range meets the Ganges river. We went rafting, hiking and swimming in the river. Incidently three Hindu Gods live in that river, although a little down stream from where we were, but they have about 15 million so I guess they have to live somewhere.
In many ways Indians have had a hard time of it, the people who had their capital in Delhi lost nine successive battles from the 1600s (that's relegation form), then got bossed about by the British for a century and dragged into a world war in which the Nazis had nicked one of their favourite squiggles. They don't get to eat beef because someone decided cows, of all creatures, are sacred and barely drink, that's not to mention the grinding poverty. However, they've done allright with Rishikesh. The hills are dotted with waterfalls and te river is lined with white sand, it must be one of the most naturally beautiful places around.
Manali - further north, still in Himilayas - is also brilliant, but right now its raining and I'm only here for a short while. Everyone is stoned here, cannabis practically grows by the side of the road like, well like grass.
The Delhi bomb casualties grew to about 30 the next day, don't know what it is now. I did speak to some people but didn't get a story together.

Delhi bombing

Five bombs have just gone off here in Delhi, apparently killing 18 people and injuring 80. I actually arrived back in Delhi today. I am currently holed up in my hotel room - not because of the bombs, I've only just heard about them - but because there's been football on and it's the first I've seen since arriving in India. Two that failed to go off were apparently in Connaught Place, a shopping area not 200 yards from where I'm staying - I've walked through there earlier today. I guess I'll go out tomorrow and try and get reaction, maybe try and sell a story to newspapers back home, can't help thinking I've missed the boat. I did pop out briefly and headed towards Connaught Place to get some dinner, must have been about an hour after it all happened. Nothing seemed out of place, people were milling about chatting, I guess it would have been hard for me to pick up on because of the language barrier, but there was no great excitement or police activity where I was. Sorry, not very informative.
On an overnight train last night I was talking to this Indian who asked me about the outside world's view of his country. We talked about a lot of stuff and he brought terrorism up, I said that it was hardly associated with India compared to Pakistan for example, but he said it was definitely there under the surface. He also pointed out (I didn't realise) that India has the world's largest Muslim population, greater than Pakistan. The Indian government seems to be blaming Muslim extremists.
I think Indians are very pragmatic, very conscious about how they are viewed by the outside world. It is also very parochial so its rows are often between different areas or one area and the government. There are, I think, 22 recognised languages, so people from the north can't understand those from the south, east can't understand west, etc. Ironically, the one language most speak except for the poorer classes is English, which is apparently pretty much their national language. I think all these things have prevented it from developing major terror issues - although according to the Beeb there have been 400 deaths from bombings since October 2005 - on the other hand I've only been here three weeks and could well be talking out of my ...

Mumbai to Jodhpur

I'm glad to be back in Rajaistan - Jodhpur this time, in the west - after a pretty dreary few days in Mumbai and some massive train journeys. It rained constantly in Mumbai and I don't know if that's why, but the place was nowhere near as interesting as other parts of India. Having said that I didn't take the boat ride to the Elephant Caves or take the role of an extra in a Bollywood movie (I kid you not, but I would have missed my train!), so maybe I didn't make the most of it.
I did work out the scam with the girl and the milk powder (previous post) - she was in league with the shop. I think you can get worn down by the begging, you get these little urchins following you around with one arm outsretched and their hand cupped, and the other hand miming eating. It's like being stalked by a Save the Children ad, so in the end you are quite ready to believe even if its likely to be a con.
Jodhpur appears to be the friendliest place on Earth. Everyone wants to say hello and talk and it can be hard just to walk down the street without being stopped every two minutes, which is no bad thing. Within an hour of arriving last night I was fed and watered and losing at chess to a Japanese fisherman called Yama on our hostel's rooftop restaurant. Think I'll spend a few days here before heading back to Delhi for some rafting, then maybe I'll head briefly north towards the Himalayas before heading to Bangkok. I've managed to wrangle six nights accommodation as part of a press trip in Bangkok, which should save me a few pennies.

Drizzle in Mumbai

In Mumbai. Took 18 tortuous hours to get here by two trains and it's only flaming raining. It's not even a monsoon, it's unmistakeably drizzle. How dull. Not sure whether its the weather or the lack of sleep, but so far Mumbai is probably the most disappointing place I've seen. Hotel is phenomenal, but the city is a little drab - neither the eastern charisma of most places in India nor the kind of buzzing metropolis you'd imagine Tokyo or Hong Kong (or top western cities) to be.
Anyway shouldn't complain. Will head north piecemeal probably through Ahmadabad and Jaisalmer back to Delhi. Got some rafting and camping organised in a fortnight. Then a few days later will head to Bangkok. No FO warning against yet, just some southern states, and should at least keep it interesting.
I appear to have blagged my way onto a six-day press trip in Thailand, which will save on accommodation. It sounds either a bit girly or new age to be honest, all spa treatments and self improvement, how can you improve on... no I won't even try that one!
Oh last word on Udaipur, my last day coincided with Ganesha's birthday celebrations, a kind of Ganesh Fest if you will, whole town all done up, very cool.
Oh and my resolve against beggars finally gave up in the face of this young woman who wanted me to buy powder milk for her baby sister. I don't see how that can be a scam. Unless it was really cocaine. Sorry, no pics until I either get attachment for phone or more likely a digital camera, which would probably be best idea.

More on Udaipur

Some things what I have noticed..

Udaipur is like India Light, it's more aesthetically pleasing, there's less poverty, less begging, it's slightly cooler and the buildings are buildings in the conventional sense with walls and a roof etc.

Dogs go mad here after 11pm - in the day it's too hot and they just flop about, early evening they stir but are still harmless, last night I was wondering around Udiapur, got lost - I have an unwarranted faith in my own sense of direction - and suddenly got surrounded by rabid dogs all barking and going nuts. It was quite unnerving. I was lost and there wasn't an autorickshaw to be found. At first I just clapped and yelled, but the dogs were only fooled by this for so long and started to circle. In the end I had to hitch a ride back to the hotel with these Indian guys on the back of a motorbike. Phew!

This is a little controversial so I'll try to be sensitive, don't mean to be rude. Obviously gay men are frowned upon here, as in many countries in this part of the world. Conversely Indian women don't go out as much as Indian men, particularly in the evenings, and couples don't generally hang out together much - again open shows of affection not the done thing. This leads to a lot of men hanging around with men. Often this just takes the form of mates hanging out normally, but it can also look very camp - they hold hands, drap arms around shoulders - I wonder if this is suppressed homosexuality that goes unnoticed or if it is just their way.

Due South

I am assured people are still reading these so I'll carry on writing them. It's best to get some shade between noon and three so internet cafes are good options. Anyway since we last spoke (Oh my days, my blog has become my imaginary friend) I've travelled through Jaipur, Chittaurgarh and am now in Udiapur.

Jaipur seems to get a bad rap, but is actually really nice. The pink city is exactly what you'd imagine an Indian shopping bazaar to be like, with tightly fitted shops all bustling with life. There are con-artists but they are easy enough to spot, and at least they put some thought and effort into their con, unlike the traders who just follow you around (if I say no six times, why do you think the seventh will be the charm?) The pink walls are very odd looking, like painted cardboard boxes or papier mache, unfortunately I've lost the attachment to load pics so you'll have to wait for the time being.

Had an elephant ride up to Amber Fort. My elephant was called Brasilie, I preferred him to the guide who was pretty dull. Chittaurgarh also has a fort ... but little else. The fort is cool, but there's only so many old palaces and religious buildings you can see before becoming blaze. Got a couple of days in Udaipur now, it is very nice, on a lake, which is green so not really for swimming, so off to chill out a bit. If you are still reading this I hope you are all well.